September 30, 2009

A Good Reputation

Posted in American Gem Society, Appraiser, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser, Registered Jeweler tagged , , , , , , , , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

If you could be promised increased body strength, fortune, and longevity, would you wear jade? It might just be gemstone lore, but I’d try anything to increase my body strength and find a fortune!

Jadeite is also another gem that may endure some cosmetic enhancement before finding its way into a jeweler’s showcase. In the trade, they are separated into categories:

A jade – Natural, untreated jadeite

B jade – Bleached, polymer impregnated jadeite

C jade – Bleached, polymer impregnated and dyed jadeite

D jade – Dyed jadeite     (source Mason Kay)

You may think green when thinking of jade – but there are other natural colors too – orange and lavender to name two. And, there’s also nephrite jade, which is different from and less expensive than fine jadeite jade. Dyed jadeite can look very good – but this does affect the price and value – and an experienced gemologist can usually detect this when viewed with magnification.

The B jade is not so easy to detect. It requires an expensive instrument that is usually only available through a professional gemological laboratory. For the jeweler, it’s their responsibility to demand documentation on their invoice from their jade supplier explaining exactly what – if any – treatment(s) has been done.

This type of professionalism continues on through the transaction with you, the customer. You can make an informed decision and know that you are receiving good value for your money. A Certified Gemologist or Certified Gemologist Appraiser of the American Gem Society will also advise you on the proper care of your jade.  Live long and prosper. Goodbye September…  Dii

September 29, 2009

That Topaz is Hot!

Posted in American Gem Society, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser, Registered Jeweler tagged , , , , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

You may have read a bit about blue topaz and that it must be tested for residual radiation (and pass) before being sold in the US. You may have noticed that some jewelers have elected to remove it from their inventory.  Should you be concerned?  Not really. But there are a few facts that may be of interest.

First, I think it’s really cool that a nuclear reactor or accelerator can produce these beautiful colors of topaz.  Generally, the darker blue topaz – known as London Blue – will result in more radiation than the lighter tones – known as Sky Blue.  However, the treater allows the radiation to “decay” a few months before importing it into the market for sale. Then, the testing facility needs to issue a clearance for the stones to be safely sold.  This is the law now. For more information visit www.nrc.gov and look for the fact sheet on Irradiated Gemstones.

This is not a warning that blue topaz is causing any health problems – it’s more of a wake-up call to suppliers that they must comply with the law. However, you might want to ask if the blue topaz you’re considering to purchase is documented as tested and clear. Peace of mind that your topaz is HOT!  but it isn’t “hot”.  …Dii

September 28, 2009

Cosmetic Surgery

Posted in American Gem Society, Appraiser, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Emerald, Emeralds, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser tagged , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

This term covers many different enhancements to the human body from lasers to knives. It’s seems a bit scary to me, but the results must be worth the risk and the money.  And, when needed to repair something such as a cleft palate, it certainly is remarkable.

What other treatments, in addition to heat, do gemstones endure to be beautiful? And, what gemstones typically have been treated?  Should you be concerned?

Emerald comes to mind, since it is so well known and popular. Historically, they have been oiled for centuries. There are various types of oil – and therefore, the results and the care changes too.

The oil is “forced” into tiny cracks or fissures that are commonly found in emeralds. These fissures have to reach the surface of the stone in order for the oil to seep in – so inevitably, it is possible for it to “seep out”. Drying agents, such as harsh jewelry cleaners or ultrasonic cleaners can accelerate this damage. Which means, even a dishwashing liquid or household cleaner could eventually produce a change in the appearance of the emerald. If you don’t do housework, you’re off the hook on this!

Another type of treatment involves a process which “seals” the filler (a polymer) into the emerald. This is guaranteed not to change color, or “come out” of the fissures. And, if it does, you can have it treated again (free) or even have the emerald replaced with a new one.  This has a trade name of “Eternity Natural Emerald’s Excel ™”.  You might want to consider this if you’re an emerald lover and doing housework!

Should you give up on owning an emerald?  No! They just need some tender loving care – kind of like that expensive silk blouse or designer suit you have.  Love it – got to take care of it.   Dii

September 25, 2009

What’s Not Treated?

Posted in American Gem Society, Appraiser, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser, Sapphire tagged , , , , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

For those of you that prefer the au naturel, what gemstones can you find that usually don’t get heated, treated, or cooked?  There are a few – and don’t think someone hasn’t tried to improve them – the results just aren’t there. Here is a list – but remember – Never say NEVER in gemology…

Garnets. Peridot.  Transparent chrysoberyl. Diopside. Spinel. Iolite. 

Oh my!!

Most all gemstones can be found in a beautiful, natural color – without heat – but it might take an expert laboratory to prove it. Tanzanite, a very popular gemstone, is typically heated. This is a permanent enhancement; so many jewelers fail to disclose it. Emeralds aren’t usually heated since they can’t stand the heat!!  But they love getting oiled.

With all these possibilities, you may wonder about gemstones.  Keep in mind, your wooden furniture is probably dyed and oiled, your clothes have been dyed, and your hair might not be its natural color.  How much of that gets disclosed?  Have a great weekend.  Dii

September 24, 2009

Recipes for Cooking Gemstones

Posted in American Gem Society, Appraiser, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser, Sapphire tagged , , , , , , , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

cook bookThere is a cook book I’ve seen that is full of recipes with only three ingredients.  It makes for some delicious meals with minimal fuss. I like that!

For gemstones, there are some unpublished cook books – and the ingredients are kept secret – that is, until a gemological laboratory figures it out. The post on Sept 11 mentions a diffusion of color into a shallow layer of the stone. This is a recipe for many of the rough sapphires that don’t respond to the heat alone. Titanium is added to the heat. But, as I said in that post – the color is not through the entire stone, so chips can reveal a colorless area.

I’ve also written about the padparadscha sapphire – a pinkish orange color which is extremely rare in nature, but more easily produced in a laboratory/kitchen! Beryllium is added to the heat. The color is not affected by an ultrasonic cleaner, but depending on the depth of the diffusion, it is still possible that a chip on the stone could reveal a lighter color. (Beryllium produces other colors too.)

Some recipes call for high heat; some only low heat. What’s high heat?  About 2000 degrees Centigrade – close to the melting point of corundum (species). Low heat can be found on your oven dial.

Can the heat damage the stone?  Yes, a risk of the treatment and another reason to do this before the cutting and polishing.  After all, you wouldn’t ice the cake before you baked it!!  …Dii

September 23, 2009

Cooking Up Some Color

Posted in American Gem Society, Appraiser, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser, Sapphire tagged , , , , , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

easy bake ovenHeat can be a good thing – for cooking a cake and a gemstone. For sapphires, heat with or without an oxygen-rich environment can improve the color.  The heat can make the blue more intense or even lighten some of those very dark blue sapphires.

This treatment, or enhancement, is permanent. Additional heat won’t alter the color again. It doesn’t affect the durability of the sapphire and you can still clean it using an ultrasonic cleaner.

However, some of the rough doesn’t respond – which is why this treatment is usually done before the cutter works his or her magic. For the rough that doesn’t respond well to the heat, it can go into another pile for a different treatment that involves additional ingredients in the recipe. (Tomorrow).

Probably 99% of all sapphires have been heated. A blue sapphire that is a beautiful color without any heat treatment will cost more – because it’s more rare. For jewelers, we come to expect that sapphires are heated and are more likely to ask if the gem ISN’T heated. But, for a consumer, this information shouldn’t be ignored – it should be disclosed before the purchase. It gives you pertinent information and peace of mind that the jeweler knows about gemstones, how to care for them, and how to value them.

Ask a credentialed jeweler – such as a Certified Gemologist of the American Gem Society – about heat treatment or enhancement of color gemstones. They are the Master Chefs.  Tomorrow – recipes!  …Dii

September 22, 2009

I Feel Pretty!

Posted in American Gem Society, Certified Gemologist, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser tagged , , , , , at 8:38 am by agsblingblog

SpaOh – the spa.  It can rejuvenate you and make your skin sooooo soft! You look and feel pretty!!  If you wanted to relate this treatment to gemstones, the purpose is similar. Gemstones are treated – some use the word enhanced – to make them prettier!

It’s fairly common with a number of gemstones – not common in others. So, the jeweler has a responsibility to tell you your options and what that can mean for your gemstone – “down the road”.

Take sapphire and ruby as an example. I mentioned a bit about treatments in earlier posts. (July 22 & Sept 11) These two gemstones are commonly heated to enhance their color. No dyes – just heat.  There are unheated sapphires and rubies – some which you wouldn’t make the effort to pick it up; some so beautiful and rare, but more expensive than your budget. Which is exactly why sapphires and other gemstones are heated – to make them more beautiful, saleable, and affordable.  A spa for gemstones!!

It’s a good thing – as long as you understand.  Tomorrow, a bit more about what that heat enhancement does to a gemstone. …Dii

September 21, 2009

The Good, The Bad & The Pretty!

Posted in American Gem Society, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry tagged , , , , , , , at 8:47 am by agsblingblog

When meeting someone, you expect that they will disclose their correct name. Jewelers and gemstones are similar. We expect the jeweler to provide the correct variety name of the gemstone such as emerald versus beryl; ruby versus pink sapphire; and smoky quartz rather than smoky topaz. (Last week’s posts.)

When getting to know someone, and discovering if you want to spend more time with them, you expect that they will disclose more about their past – and learn how they feel about you and other things in the world you might share.

When getting to know about a gemstone, you should expect the jeweler to disclose all the facts – including its past and future expectations. It didn’t come out of the ground looking like a gemstone – just what process did it go through and how does that affect its future?

This week, it’s all about gemstone treatments – the good, the bad, and the pretty!!  …Dii

September 18, 2009

How Green Is It?

Posted in American Gem Society, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Emerald, Emeralds, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser tagged , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

green pastureThings are supposed to be greener on the other side of the fence. Trouble is, when you get there, they might be entirely different and not green at all. Those greener pastures can be filled with… well, let’s just say the color brown.

With emeralds, green is VERY important. A light green color isn’t what we think of, and it certainly shouldn’t be what you pay emerald prices for. Remember species and varieties? (May 28, All in the Family)

Beryl is the species and emerald is the variety name, based on the color green. But – and this is a big but – it has to be dark enough! A light green beryl is not an emerald – it’s a green beryl. So what color do we need to get to emerald? It can come down to the buyer and the seller again. For those borderline calls, you could find the seller looking to greener pastures…

Picture in your mind the deep green of a luscious emerald. You don’t want it to be too dark – and you certainly want it to be bright. So many emeralds form with natural inclusions (various minerals and breaks) inside the gem – inclusions that resemble an entire garden. And, many emeralds are treated with some type of near colorless oil to make those inclusions less noticeable. This requires full disclosure and accurate advice on the care of your emerald. You need an expert advisor; not a green one!

Emeralds, just as most all color gemstones, increase in rarity and price when the color takes your breath away. Just breathe… and enjoy the last weekend of your green summer. Until Monday…Dii

September 17, 2009

Tickled Pink

Posted in American Gem Society, Certified Gemologist, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Colored Stones, Gemologist, Jeweler, Jewellery, Jewelry, Jewelry Appraiser tagged , , , , , , , at 5:00 am by agsblingblog

When you see red, you’re mad; when you’re in the pink, you’re tickled! What a difference tone makes…

In the gemstone world, the difference between pink and red can cost quite a few dollars. For example, the difference between pink and red corundum is the difference between pink sapphire and ruby. (Remember those species and varieties?) Corundum is the species and ruby and sapphire are varieties, dependent on color.

Who makes the call?  Usually the buyer and the seller. When it’s a borderline call, the seller usually goes for the ruby and the buyer is thinking pink sapphire!  In a two-carat gemstone, the ruby might be twice the price of a pink sapphire. Whoa……

If I paid for a ruby and got a pink sapphire, I wouldn’t be too tickled – I’d be seeing red!  Better to see a credentialed jeweler/gemologist who can show you the difference!!  …Dii

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