June 30, 2010
Lapis Lazuli
Courtesy of PBS
Answer: There is no industry standard for the grading terminology used to evaluate lapis – or other color gemstones. Therefore, you will find various suppliers using their own grading scale which may or may not align with others. A++ “looks” like a higher grade than A or B, however, the supplier should explain rather than leaving it to guesswork.
When evaluating lapis, important factors include the color, the quality of polish, and presence of “gold flecks”. Some people like the flecks – others do not. Visit www.gemstone.org. This is the site for the International Colored Stone Association. They have good information about lapis, its history and qualities. …Dii
June 29, 2010
Certified Appraisal
Question: I have purchased a sapphire ring and received a ‘certified appraisal’ with my purchase. How can I tell if the sapphires are real? They have a violet hue and look more like tanzanite than sapphires. Do re-appraisals cost a lot of money? Can you help me?
Answer: You could choose to have a second opinion about the identity and value of your ring. The credentials of the appraiser are most important. He or she should have education and experience in gemology, gem identification, and valuation methodology if you want a value assigned too.
The charges for an appraisal will vary depending on the time to complete the work and generate a document. Some gemologist/appraisers would be willing to just advise you on the identity of the stones without commenting on the value or providing a written document. A professional appraiser will provide you with an estimate of the charges before you decide to proceed. It’s difficult to quote you a price, but may range from $50 – $100.
It is not recommended that an identity be based on color – especially when sapphires are available in many various colors. There is a test which verifies the refractive index and optic character of minerals. This would separate tanzanite from sapphire – and would not damage the stones. There is always the possibility of glass, plastic, assembled, and treated stones. A Certified Gemologist or Certified Gemologist Appraiser with an Accredited Gem Lab can make this determination for you. …Dii
June 28, 2010
Hypothetically Speaking
Question: I have an appraisal from 1983. Would the information on the appraisal be enough to get an updated valuation for the stones without physically seeing the stones which have not been out of the box since 1983?
Answer: Yes, it is possible; however the appraisal would be considered a hypothetical appraisal. If you need to insure the stones, check with the insurance company. They may require that the stones be examined and evaluated to today’s standards.
When you speak with a credentialed appraiser, they can advise you on all the options for this valuation. A Certified Gemologist or Certified Gemologist Appraiser of the American Gem Society will also provide an estimate of the charges before you decide to proceed. Dii
June 25, 2010
How Big Is It?
Many times we speak in general terms. For example, you might say that your house is 2000 square feet when it’s actually 1980 sq ft. It’s quite acceptable to “round off” some numbers. But, when it comes to diamonds, it’s another story. Here’s a very good question:
“What is an acceptable threshold of carat measurement? Could a .44 or .45 be considered a ‘half carat’?”
My answer: In the wholesale industry, diamonds are sorted according to carat weight (among other characteristics). The sizes of 0.44ct to 0.49ct are considered to be “light half carats”. However, when selling a diamond to a consumer, a half carat must weigh at least 0.50 carat.
Likewise, it’s not a one carat until it weighs 1.00 carat. In fact, according to the Diamond Grading Standards of the American Gem Society, it isn’t a one carat until it weighs 1.000 carat!! Picky, picky… Dii
June 24, 2010
Bent and Damaged?
Questions commonly come after an internet purchase – Here’s one:
“I recently bought a semi-mount online. When I took it to my jeweler for the diamond, he said there was previously a diamond in it and the prongs were bent/damaged. He told me to send it back, but the customer service representative from the site guaranteed that it never had a diamond in it. Should I get a second opinion? Please advise.”
First of all, has the service representative SEEN the ring and does he or she have the experience to know about the condition? Or, was the ring pulled from inventory by someone else who didn’t really utilize a quality control process? It could have slipped “through the cracks”!!
Perhaps a second opinion would clarify the condition of the mounting. I suggest you find an appraiser or jeweler who is not an interested party – which means they have nothing to lose or gain by determining if the prongs are new or used.
If you have two other jewelers claiming the ring prongs are used, the seller should simply replace the ring for you – end of story. You shouldn’t even be charged postage!! I call that CUSTOMER SERVICE!
Lastly, prongs are made specifically for a certain shape and size of stone. Prongs for a diamond, for example, may not always be suitable for setting a color gemstone and vice versa. Depending on the style of the ring, and the type of stone you purchase, you may not be able to use the existing prongs anyway. …Dii
June 23, 2010
Jewelry is Going to the Dogs!
When you have lots of money – and a love of animals – you might decide to leave it all behind – to the dogs. Apparently, this is what happened upon the death of Gail Posner. It appears that she had set up a $3 million trust in order for the domestic help to live in her house and care for the pets! Oo lah lah! Check out the bling!! …Dii
June 22, 2010
Appraisal Tips
Another popular topic from consumers is appraising. Here’s a recent question:
“ I have an appraisal from 1983. Would the information on the appraisal be enough to get an updated valuation for the stones without physically seeing the stones which have not been out of the box since 1983?”
My answer: Yes, it is possible; however, the appraisal would be considered a hypothetical appraisal. If you’re wanting to insure the stones, check with the insurance company. They may require that they be examined to verify they exist, confirm their weight and quality, and then be evaluated to today’s standards. When you speak with a credentialed appraiser, they can advise you on all the options for this type of valuation. A Certified Gemologist or Certified Gemologist Appraiser of the American Gem Society will also provide an estimate of the charges before you decide to proceed.
Be sure to tell your appraiser all the facts – what you need and why. They can help you make the best decision. …Dii
June 21, 2010
Is This “Real”?
A common concern from consumers is if a stone they have is “real”. The following is a recent inquiry and my response:
“I have, what I think is a natural yellow topaz. The reason being the ring was purchased in 1958, said to be a topaz and purchased before heat-treating and citrine. Are there any “at-home” tests one can do to ensure the stone is a topaz? My jeweler said the only way to test for topaz is through some liquid or acid or oil. I can tell you this, the stone scratches glass.”
Answer: The test the jeweler is referring to is a refractive index reading. The result of this test easily separates citrine (quartz) from topaz. It involves a liquid which is applied to the equipment and touches a facet of the stone; however, this liquid does not harm the stone. A Certified Gemologist or Certified Gemologist Appraiser of the American Gem Society can help with this.
The fact that it scratches glass proves only that it is harder than the manmade glass — and many natural gemstones are harder than glass, including citrine and topaz. …Dii
June 18, 2010
Who Can You Believe?
Many times, when you receive conflicting information, you just don’t know who to believe. Here’s a recent inquiry from the American Gem Society website and my response:
“I had a rough ruby cut and faceted. An initial GIA appraisal valued it at $31,500 at 6.56 carats. I got a second opinion by a certified gemologist who appraises and values gems, and was told it was a “glass-filled” or “composite” ruby worth $500 or so at most. So I have two different opinions on the finished product. What’s the best way to determine once and for all which it is? Thanks.”
First of all, GIA does not provide values – they will only identify a gemstone. If the appraiser claims to be GIA certified, it may only mean that he or she took classes or courses from the school.
You mentioned that you were told that it was a glass-filled or composite ruby. These are two different things depending on the amount of glass present in the stone. Most rubies are heated to improve their color – and some of these have fractures which are glass filled. Composite ruby contains more glass – sometimes more glass than ruby!
The GIA Gem Trade Laboratory can give you an accurate report on the origin of the stone – then a Certified Gemologist Appraiser of the American Gem Society can use the report to help research the value. Many appraisers can also help you with submitting the stone to GIA – either GIA New York or GIA Carlsbad in California.
Rely on an expert who believes in education – and proven ethics. Have a great weekend. …Dii
June 15, 2010
Have You Heard? Diamonds are Rare!
Some people think that diamonds are plentiful – and over priced! After all, a few years back there was a special on TV which showed the stock pile of diamonds in Russia and we heard of the stock piles which DeBeers owned. DeBeers controlled about 85% of all diamonds, which allowed them to pretty much set the prices. That percentage is down to about 40% today – and their stock piles are gone.
Demand dropped in 2008 and 2009, along with the value of my home, but the US, China, and India still buy a lot of diamonds. And, they remain the gem of choice for engagements, which continue to happen through these tough economic times.
Can the earth “run out” of diamonds? Perhaps not, but what size and quality are we willing to settle on?
For the average engagement ring, the demand isn’t depleting the supply just yet. What I see as being rare is the diamond which is cut for sparkle and fire rather than weight retention. These diamonds may seem like a bargain – and plentiful – but look beyond the color, clarity, and carat weight. Don’t get hung up on what a diamond is – look for what a diamond DOES!! …Dii
