August 10, 2011
Now Performing! Emerald Cut Diamonds
Question: I am interested in purchasing an Emerald cut diamond. I am curious as to what are the ideal specs to look for in an emerald? My girlfriend likes the rectangular, elegant, classy look of the stone. Any information will be helpful! Thank you for your time!
Answer: The American Gem Society has the only grading laboratory with standards for grading the performance of fancy shaped diamonds. These include the princess, oval, and emerald cut shapes. After research by the AGS Laboratory team and an optical physicist, AGS has patented a grading system based on ray tracing technology and the measurement of light return in each diamond. Although proportions “drive” that performance, the AGS concluded that there are hundreds, if not thousands of proportion-combinations that will yield a beautifully performing diamond.
For an emerald cut diamond, the length to width ratio is important not just for light performance, but for your personal taste too. If the diamond is twice as long as it is wide, it may seem a bit long in the l:w ratio. By viewing a collection of diamonds, you and your girlfriend can choose a shape which is most pleasing.
The thickness of the girdle usually doesn’t affect the light performance of a diamond; however, it can greatly affect the weight. If the girdle is very thick, you’re paying for weight that you can’t see face up! If the girdle is extremely thin, depending on the setting, it could be more susceptible to chipping.
Another consideration in the overall quality of the cut, is the symmetry of the facets and the polish on those facets. A professional diamond grader evaluates these characteristics using magnification — seeing more than you might see — but understanding how these can affect the overall value.
Color is important with all diamonds; however, the broad facets of an emerald cut can more easily reveal the body color of a diamond. If your girlfriend likes white gold or platinum, a diamond with body color (and many have this) will show yellow in the ring. Again, seek the advice of a professional and have them show you the subtle differences in color and how they affect the value of the diamond.
Cut quality can affect the value of a diamond by as much as 50% or more, so seek the advice of a credentialed jeweler/gemologist. Dii
